Two grey mums setting out from Sydney - both with suckling babies on board2
Peak
mating with black, grey-headed, and spectacled flying-foxes occurs
in April, so whilst many females arriving into our care in winter
and early spring are pregnant, there are often no tell tale signs
to tell us so. As pregnancy starts to move into later stages however,
females arriving into care are visually, and quite obviously pregnant
to our eyes by about early August. Little reds are of course six
months out-of-sync to the other three species.
Grey-headed flying-fox in care with her 1-week-old pup.
SIGNS
TO LOOK FOR:
As pregnancy
draws towards the later stages, there are some very obvious signs
to indicate that the mature female in your care is "with child"
so to speak:
1. Fat
bellies: the most obvious sign of advancing pregnancy is an
ever-growing belly. Until birthing, the developing pup is sitting transversely
across the belly, which gives mum a distinctive pear shape (see
photo below).
2. Constant weight
gain: if the flying-fox has been in your care for a while (and
if you have been weighing regularly), there will be a slow and
steady weight gain, which escalates as the birth draws closer.
3. Enlarged
nipples: as pregnancy develops, nipples will become enlarged.
4. Feel:
sliding your fingers around the belly above the rib cage, you
will with practice, be clearly able to feel the pup - particularly
if you slide your fingers around towards the back where body
meets wing membranes. On one side will be a definite rounded
shape (the head), and on the other will be more pointy bits
(the hips and elbows) as clearly seen in the x-ray below.
5. Lactation:
at approximately one week before normal birth, lactation begins.
This can be checked by gently squeezing the nipple upwards from
the base to express milk.
X-ray of grey-headed mother with nearly full-term pup.
Note
that sadly, she had a broken spine from motor vehicle collision.
Caesarean section was performed under anaesthetic before mum was
euthanased, but despite baby having a heartbeat, our vet just could
not get him to breath.
CARE
OF PREGNANT MOTHERS
After
witnessing many births, I am convinced that mother flying-foxes
start to exhibit subtle behavioural changes just prior to birth,
and act quite differently once they have a tiny pup on board. Before
baby is born - apart from being fat - she will just be like any
other flying-fox in care, doing her favourite batty things such
as sleeping, washing, and eating. As the birth approaches, she will
usually start to get restless - not content to just hang around
all day by one foot. She will usually also be observed spending
an increasing amount of time "investigating" and washing
her vulva, and may sometimes go off her food a little a few days
prior to birth - perhaps preoccupied or distracted by other matters?
One fat bat...
Stress
is the single biggest cause of stillborn abortion, so once we realise
that mum is indeed pregnant, we should do our utmost to keep her
in as stress free environment as possible. Mothers coming in from
entanglement from barbed wire and fruit netting are most at risk,
and whilst we need to give medications, and treat damaged wings
several times daily - do what you have to do, and then leave her
alone. Mothers that are going to abort usually do so within 1-5 days of rescue, so this is the crucial period in our care.
It goes
without saying that stress climbs into the stratosphere with an
injured flying-fox kept alone all by itself. This should not be
done at any time with these social animals, let alone when pregnant2.
All our injured flying-foxes are initially housed in a dedicated
room (not outside in a cage), a system yielding a very high success
rate for a whole variety of reasons. These animals are by nature
injured, or they would not be in care. Injuries require constant
medication and treatment, and this system allows for a very clean
and safe environment without the need to constantly chase them round
a large cage six times a day for oil and massage treatment for damaged
membranes.
Make
friends (gently) - a flying-fox used to hand feeding does not freak out every
time you enter the room or cage. I have heard "purists"
maintain that this in some way humanises them. If so, I would suggest
that the purists actually try this system and then note
the 100% lack of humanising upon release... This is all about treating
injuries in the most appropriate way to bring about speedy recovery
- not misguided semantics. These injured animals eat out of my hand,
allow me to medicate freely without running away (lack of stress),
and even climb onto me. Are they humanised? No - once released,
you do not see them for dust. The apparent humanising is
actually nothing more than an intelligent animal simply exploiting
its temporary environment, and has nothing at all to do with humanizing
or imprinting. To the purists that I can hear going "tsk
tsk" out there - I would suggest a study of actual (not
theoretical) flying-fox behaviour (both feeding and territorial
systems) is in order. Try this system, and increase your success
rate.
Diet
for lactating and nursing mothers is the usual assortment of fruit,
with two alterations: fruit intake will naturally increase both in
late stage pregnancy and after the birth, and our normal addition
of 5 grams of high protein supplement should now be increased to
10 grams per day. Many people (myself included) prefer to give generous
amounts of leadbeater's possum mix (with a little live yoghourt
thrown in) in addition to the WOMBAROO HPS ®
to these pregnant and lactating/nursing mothers. If you only have
these mothers in residence, you can give this mixture in small open
D-bowls, or if in mixed company - they can be fed via bare syringe.
This easily digestible mix is high in proteins, carbohydrates, and
calcium to help replace nutrients that these large and demanding
babies place on mum. My own method is to give each mum their fruit
with the 10 grams HPS, plus 20-30mL per night of adapted leadbeater's
mix.
ADAPTED
LEADBEATER'S POSSUM MIX:3
To
make 900mL:
20
grams WOMBAROO HIGH PROTEIN SUPPLEMENT ®.
1
raw egg ( WHITE only).
180mL honey.
10
grams SUSTAGEN ® powder (vanilla flavoured).
Water
to make up 900mL of total mix (@ 760mL).
In your
blender, first add some of the water, then the other ingredients,
and then the rest of the water to make up a 900mL mix. We need
a lovely smooth consistency, which will freely pass through the
syringe. Keep refrigerated. This mixture will last for up to a fortnight
in the fridge.
THE
BIRTH
Flying-foxes
in care very often give birth from late afternoon through to early
evening, but it can happen at any time, particularly when you are
least expecting it. This is a bit odd, as in the wild most mothers
give birth in the colony during the day, and not when out foraging
after dark.
As the
birth draws near there are definite signs to look out for. She will
of course be very fat, and she will often have started lactating
some days before the event. She will often become restless (pacing
around - looking generally unsettled - and a tad uncomfortable).
Closer still, she will start frequently licking herself [probably
don't need to explain where], and her pear-shaped abdomen can change
shape as baby (who has been lying transversely across the belly),
now enters the birthing position - which is "head-up"
if mum is hanging normally - that would be "head-down"
in the x-ray above. As birthing becomes imminent she will often
spread the load by hanging onto airer or cage roof with
all fours, and will usually start frequently appearing to invert,
using gravity to help. Just like any other mammal, she will be steadily
dilating, with contractions clearly visible, (and audible - as her
straining often produces little pained vocalisations). Let's face
it - these are really big babies. When her waters break, we are
nearly there.
The first
thing you will see emerge is the brownish coloured embryonic sack
- looking not unlike a bizarre bubble. As the head is pushed clear,
this sack will either rupture by itself, or mum will do the honours,
and suddenly we are looking at the face of a brand new baby flying-fox,
as mum hurriedly licks all the membrane clear of baby's airways
and eyes. With the head now clear, the whole process can now go
on hold - in some cases, for a couple of hours. If you have not
seen this before, it can be quite bizarre to witness mum returning
to the food or water bowls, while junior (head only) is quite content
to look around, "talk" to mum, or just go to sleep and
wait. She is gathering energy and resting for the final big push
- the shoulders. This is the widest area of her pup, and if this
does not make her screw her eyes up and squeak - nothing will. When
all is ready, she will return to licking, hanging by all fours,
or inverting, and the immense strain is obvious on her face as first
one shoulder is slowly pushed clear, and then the other - with each
wave of contraction.
As stated
earlier, the shoulders are the widest part. Once these are clear,
there really is not much left holding bubby in there, so now comes
the really clever bit: the all-important big catch. Nature has produced
an animal that basically gives birth upside down, and that same
gravity that helped to start the process, could now see our newborn
plummet to the colony floor below. Luckily, mother flying-foxes
have developed a cunning strategy in the shape of those big wings
- which are really just huge modified hands. Arching her back, and
forming a basket with forearms and membrane covered fingers, she
cleverly catches her pup, which once shoulders are clear, can literally
rocket out like a slippery little jet propelled missile. She has
one chance at this only, and 99 times out of a hundred produces
a crowd stunning catch to make the Australian cricket team proud.
If she does happen to miss, her backup is the umbilical cord, and
a quick flurry of guiding thumbs brings baby back up to safety.
Within seconds she has guided baby onto one of her nipples, and
instinctive grasping by his or her feet see baby safely in position,
as she now goes about cleaning her new baby up.
Once
suckling, you can now go and make a cuppa, light a cigar, or pour
yourself that double brandy. Oh yes - and you can remember to start
breathing again. Well done both of you - one more precious flying-fox
pup has entered the world.
Black flying-fox inverting (using gravity) to aid in birthing.
Swinging back up to "catch" baby as
the shoulders come clear.
Proud mum wearing her brand new fashion accessory.'Now
where's the food.'
COMPLICATIONS
Most
flying-fox births in care all go off according to plan, but sometimes
we need to be prepared for the unexpected. Some of the things that
can go wrong are difficult births due to genital or other injury;
retained placentas; and the retention of dead pups.
DIFFICULT
BIRTHS:
Sometimes,
in rare cases, mum may experience a difficult birth due to complications
such as genital or abdominal damage sustained from barbed wire entanglement,
and may require a little assistance from us, in the form of a cotton
tip, and some lubrication. Many human mothers need to be snipped
and stitched during and after childbirth, so it makes sense
that any birthing flying-fox with injuries to vulva or surrounding
tissues (with resulting dryness or soft tissue contraction) is going
to experience difficulty and pain.
Once
it is obvious that she is indeed birthing (observed dilation and
contractions) the procedure is to take a cotton tip saturated in
warmed olive or vegetable oil, and to gently moisturise and lubricate
the area. This can be done several times to soften any dry scar
tissue, and then once baby's head starts to appear - you can time
your applications with her contractions. Each time she pushes, lubricate
the head. When she stops pushing, the head will of course retract
a little - taking the oil in with it. When she pushes again - lubricate;
and so on. Each time she pushes - a little bit more of her pup becomes
visible, allowing you to run your cotton bud around in a circle
where vulva meets pup until we get to the shoulders. Just keep applying
oil to this juncture, and if all goes well, once shoulders are clear
- it is all over. Many thanks to Robyn Gough for tips and procedure
on that one. I have used this method very successfully with a female
black flying-fox giving birth despite quite extensive genital damage,
and to another female who was becoming exhausted after going into
labour soon after intake. It works a treat. Both mothers were on
airers, and freely allowed me to help. The trick is to get down
to their level, reassure them, and don't make sudden movements with
your hands. Above all - be patient, as flying-fox births can sometimes
be quite protracted, but if we really aren't getting anywhere after
2 hours, and mum is becoming physically exhausted, we may need to
look at veterinary intervention.
Remember
that we do not actually need to intervene in most cases, and people
who have never witnessed a flying-fox giving birth may mistakenly
think that just because mum is straining or taking a couple of hours,
she must therefore be in trouble. In nearly all cases (particularly
if there is no physical damage in that area), this is not necessarily
the case. We must always keep in mind that, not to put too fine
a point on it - that these pups are huge - some weighing up to 20%
of mum's bodyweight - enough to make anyone's eyes water.....
INDUCING
LABOUR & RETAINED PLACENTAS:
INDUCING
LABOUR:
If mum
has been straining for hours, but just cannot seem to "produce",
your vet should be consulted, as they may need to induce labour.
Synthetic OXYTOCIN (a naturally
occurring hormone that helps to begin labour, control bleeding following
delivery, and stimulate milk production) is used to cause muscles
in the uterus to contract, to initiate the birthing process. This
drug which has been around and used safely since 1953, is administered
via frequent injections (ideally intravenously), and is of course
a veterinary procedure only.
RETAINED
PLACENTA:
A retained
placenta, which is very rare in flying-foxes, means that all or
part of the placenta or membranes are left behind in the uterus
during the last stage of labour. This can cause shock, haemorrhage
- as the uterus cannot contract properly, and blood vessels, which
are not naturally closed off, continue to bleed, or sepsis (infection).
The best way to monitor that all is well, is to stay with her until
the placenta is clearly expelled, but this may not be practical,
as it can take from 30 minutes to several hours, and at some point,
you will need to sleep. Mum will usually chew/pulp the expelled
placenta to extract minerals, before discarding. An obvious lack
of placenta (whether natural or pulped), or any sign of prolonged
bleeding should be investigated by your vet fairly quickly. Also,
flying-foxes are not human, so do not cut the cord, as this can
actually cause retraction back into the uterus. If your vet diagnoses
a full or partial retained placenta, he or she either will use OXYTOCIN
to induce expulsion, or may opt for manual removal under general
anaesthesia. In a case of retained placenta, a course of antibiotics
will need to be started.
CAESAREAN
SECTION:
Sometimes
- in very rare cases, your vet may decide that the only way forward
is to go down the path of surgical extraction. This would be the
case with a retained dead pup, or because inducement has not worked
with a difficult delivery. Caesarean section is a fairly straightforward
operation involving an incision through the abdominal and uterine
walls to physically extract the foetus. If your vet decides to go
down this path, be ready to immediately clean baby's airways if
alive, and wrap and put baby straight onto heat until mum is sufficiently
recovered to be able to take her little one back.
CARE
OF LACTATING MOTHERS
Care
of lactating (or nursing) mothers is basically the same as the care
of expectant mothers in the section above, with the following points
in mind: although baby has been born alive and well, we still need
to keep her stress levels to an absolute minimum. If she feels threatened
all the time, she will be in a constant protective anti-predator
mode, which will play havoc with her natural body chemistry, hormone
levels, and emotional well-being - not to mention her milk production.
Nursing
mothers should (wherever possible) always be housed with other nursing
mothers, as they just seem to do really well together. This can
of course be in a mixed cage environment, but most people report
that nursing mums tend to hang around together in a little sub-group
amongst the others. Apart from imitating nature, this also gives
them a chance to compare notes. Who knows? Just like human mothers
who are all convinced that their baby is of course much more beautiful
than any other baby ever born (even if they do have two heads and
the wrong number of fingers), maybe these batty mums are looking
over each other's shoulders, thinking 'God - your baby is just sooooo
ugly.' Humour aside - being the odd one out in a cage is alien to
normal colony life. We cannot practically bring in 500 others for
company, but one or two other mums, plus the normal mixed bag of
rehabilitating animals will certainly help to put her at ease.
And please,
do not invite every person you can think of to come and see the
new cute baby. Mum has spent time getting used to you, and does
not need to be constantly terrified with a procession of other well-meaning
admirers. As always - this is about the animal's well being - not
yours.
As above
- her dietary requirements will be an increase in fruit, and of
course that all important increase in high protein supplement from
5 grams - up to 10 grams per day (if not already increased), plus
some leadbeater's mix to really top her up. Of course if you have
ten flying-foxes in a cage, of which only two are nursing mums, it
is logistically impossible to give 5 grams to the others, and 10
grams of HPS to the mums... Just give them all 10 grams. The leadbeater's
can be given individually via syringe, but be prepared to be accosted
once the others smell this yummy brew.
IS
WOMBAROO HPS ENOUGH FOR NURSING MOTHERS?:
Many
people (myself included) feel that the addition of the recommended
10 gms of Wombaroo HPS just does not quite "cut it" as far
as dietary needs (protein) for nursing mothers, and my own figures
certainly suggest that growth rates for mother-reared pups in care
are somewhat "lacking" on this supplement alone - and
increasing the amount of HPS is not the way to go. We can supplement their diet with the adapted leadbeater's
possum mix given above, or in the 2005/06 season I trialled the
much simpler addition of yoghourt (which many groups use) after
two pups on mums were growing at less-than-optimal-rate. Growth
rates picked up immediately, and both pups consistently put on 3-4 grams per day from thereon in. I will certainly use this simple
additional supplement for all nursing mothers from now on. As an
added bonus, this also supplies the mums with extra calcium.
AMOUNT
PER ANIMAL:
20
- 30mL of APPLE JUICE (freshly juiced if possible).
1
tablespoon YALMA
® strawberry, or bush honey flavoured yoghourt.
Make
into a smoothie, and feed via bare syringe, or syringe with short
length of soft oxygen tubing attached. Your mothers will eagerly
lap this mix, and the only problem you face is getting mobbed by
the others once they get the smell. Note: this needs to be fed individually
to each nursing mother only, and not added to the diet of all animals in a communal cage environment,
as they are already getting their optimal requirements from the
fruit and HPS. This is just an extra supplement for lactating females.
I would personally recommend using this additional supplement until
baby is 4-6 weeks old, after which it will naturally lick juices
from mum's lips..
Mother black with extensive wing damage, and her 6-week-old pup
in care.
MONITORING
BABY'S PROGRESS
A mother
flying-fox is (almost) always the best mother, but for various reasons
including trauma, injuries and stress, her milk output may not be
enough to keep baby well fed and growing, or in some cases may not
be there at all. How do we know? It used to be believed that (A)
if baby was constantly transferring from nipple to nipple, it was
a good indication of insufficient milk supply, and conversely, that
(B) if baby was happily suckling from the same nipple for hours
at a time, there was sufficient milk flow. In reality - assumption
B can be fatally wrong. Cheryl Cochran from NRWC reports that babies
will happily stay on one side until they die of starvation. So,
with these false assumptions in mind, we need to step in and regularly
check that baby is doing fine.
LIFT
A LEG AND CHECK BABY'S BELLY:
The first
indication or confirmation that baby is gaining enough milk (and
the least stressful to mum) is to just quietly and gently lift one
of baby's legs, and check his or her belly. If you are used to hand-rearing
pups, you may be dismayed to find that your mother-reared pup has
a belly looking nothing like the little plumpers that we raise.
This is because whereas we give our hand-reared babies 4-5 huge
feeds a day, mother-reared pups have numerous, but very small feeds.
So - when you lift baby's leg to find a belly looking small in comparison
to that hand-reared baby in your lounge - do not be alarmed - it
is probably not starving. The mother-reared pup will have an abdomen
of roughly the same proportion, or a little smaller, than the rib
cage. In other words the whole body from chest to pelvis will look
like a cylindrical slightly tapered bullet. It will not resemble
the little pot-bellied hand-reared guys in your lounge room, but will quite obviously
look like it has been fed.
Conversely,
the mother-reared pup who is not receiving adequate milk will look
like it is starving and malnourished. Its rib cage will be disproportionately
much larger in girth than it's wasting abdomen, and as the situation
worsens, that little belly will get a distinctly tapered caved in
(hollow) look, until in the extreme, its little pelvis will become
very prominent.
WEIGHING
BABY:
The best
indication of sufficient milk flow is to regularly weigh baby: twice
a week in the first two weeks, and then weekly - if baby is growing
well. Of course, despite your intentions being entirely honourable,
mother does not realise this, and once you start trying to remove
her baby, all her protective instincts kick in. She is not going
to just hang there and let you take junior without hiding him, running
away, or grabbing hold of him with every free limb she has (and
sometimes seems to develop extra invisible ones just for this purpose).
The trick
is to be quick, and do it in front of her (in sight, but out of
reach). If you remove baby and take it off to another room, you
are going to have one frantic mother when you return, which is no
good for her stress levels or milk production, and therefore not
good for her baby at all. The technique of removing baby is to gently
remove baby's feet and hold in your fingers, and then using thumb
and index finger, gently prise the pup's jaws apart - quickly moving
baby away from mum with the hand that is holding junior's feet.
This takes practice, because as soon as you remove baby it will
start chittering, which triggers mum to frantically reach out trying
to protect and grasp her baby.
Warning:
never ever attempt to just pull baby from the nipple - you will hurt or injure mum, and can fatally injure baby. The suction is so strong that you can cause a broken or dislocated jaw, or even cause cerebral haemorrhage.
SUPPLEMENTARY
FEEDING FOR BABY:
Most
mothers naturally produce enough milk for their new pup, but sometimes
various factors such as stress, premature births, or incorrect diet
can lead to a situation where mum produces insufficient milk for
normal growth, or in even rarer cases - no milk at all. Unlike with
weighing, you will have to remove baby to another room. The good
news is that most mothers soon get used to their regular breaks
from their littlies, and it's almost as if after a few times, mum
is smart enough to realise that baby is coming back.
Doting mother - but she had no milk at all.
Alternatively,
Cheryl Cochran from NRWC reports that she has had success with supplementary
feeding of babies whilst still on mum. She simply wraps mum and
pup on her lap, and then feeds bubby whilst he's still gripping
onto mum with his feet - less stress for both mum and pup.
How much
do you feed? No easy answer to that. It all comes down to experience
and weighing. One mum may have no milk, whilst the next may have
some milk - but not enough to grow baby at the right rate. A good
starting point is 4 supplementary feeds per day, and just offer
as much as baby will drink. They will let you know when they have
had enough. You may not have to do this for very long, once mum's
milk "kicks in", or in the case of the grey mother above,
I persevered for three weeks until which point it was obvious that
her milk was never going to arrive. In her case, due to other contributing
factors, it was decided to remove baby altogether, and hand-rear.
In another case, a little black pup was born approximately 10 days
prematurely in care. Weighing and visual examination revealed mum
had very little, or no milk, so supplementary feeding began. When
her milk finally did arrive, it did so suddenly. After two weeks
of supplementary feeds, I brought him in for his first feed of the
day, and three things had changed: (1) he had a really full belly,
(2) he had put on 5 grams in one day, and (3) he point blank refused
the supplementary feed - because he was already full. Support feeding
was stopped, his belly was checked daily, and he never looked back,
as his weekly weigh-ins revealed that her milk flow was fully there.
A final
tip: wash your hands thoroughly after returning pup to mum - otherwise
next time you need to be in there, you will end up "wearing"
a frantic mum, who although has had her baby safely back on board
for the last hour, can still smell bubby on your hands, and will
grab at you trying to get her pup back - again!
CALCIUM
DEFICIENCY PARALYSIS
Something
to be aware of: a condition which mainly seems to affect lactating
and nursing mothers in care, (but has also been observed in males)
is caused by abnormally low levels of calcium
in the blood - known as hypocalcemia. Intrinsically linked to low
levels of vitamin D3, which is usually sourced from sunlight acting
on the skin, D3 is needed to metabolise calcium from the diet.
In mild form, this condition is seen as an unexplained nervous disorder,
with muscle spasms in the limbs; leading to wobbly, or uncoordinated
movement, and at worst case, presenting as full hind limb paresis.
Despite adequate sunlight, this condition can suddenly appear with
no advance warning. Cheryl Cochran from Northern Rivers Wildlife
Carers has reported that animals can appear fine one minute, and
can then appear either wobbly and uncoordinated, or even semi-paralysed
on the floor of the cage when next checked. This condition is easy
to treat, but is fatal if left untreated - due to heart failure.
Calcium
deficiency paralysis and its treatment is covered here
Section
last updated:
27.07.2008 10:38 AM
1. Photo courtesy of Nick Edards.
2. With the exception of such animals needing intensive bed rest
such as post-op for long bone pinning, concussion or head injuries,
tick paralysis, or suspected ABLV.
3. Adapted
from Michael Kidman: Melbourne Zoo (and courtesy of: Marjorie Beck).